Nha Trang, Vietnam + Add a trip
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Q&A for Nha Trang
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Dopplr asks “Tell us something good about Nha Trang.”
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Getting There
Automobiles
Witnessing the traffic on the coastal highway, Mrs Smith will be thankful that self-drive is unavailable for visitors. For the relaxed approach, organise a car with driver through travel companies based in Ho Chi Minh City.
Planes
Cam Ranh International Airport, about 35km to the south, is the entry point to Nha Trang and offers connections to major cities in Vietnam, including Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Danang. With its newfound international status, direct flights are planned to and from neighbouring capitals, but for the time being there are only domestic links.
Trains
The Reunification Express (www.vr.com.vn) connects the north and south of the country with Nha Trang en route. Nightly sleeper berths are available to and from Ho Chi Minh City, Danang and Hanoi, but bear in mind that first class with air-con is really the only way to go.
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Local Knowledge
Dialing
Country code for Vietnam +84; Nha Trang: (0)54.
Reads
A Rumor of War by Philip Caputo is one of the best-written memoirs to emerge from the American War. For something to make you laugh out loud, seek out a copy of Phaic Tăn: Sunstroke on a Shoestring. A spoof guidebook to a composite country in south-east Asia, everyone is a target in this title. A work of pure genius. Read it and weep - with mirth.
Do go / Don't Go
Nha Trang has some of the best weather on Vietnam's coastline. Officially the rains dampen the party from October to December, but in recent years they have been fairly light by comparison with points north.
Cuisine
Travelling through Vietnam overloads the senses, and that continues when you eat here. Delicate flavours, subtle aromas and fresh ingredients combine to make a journey through the country a gastronomic adventure.
Taxis
Taxis from the airport cost about 300,000d (US$16), although it's less than 200,000d (US$10) in the other direction. Once in Nha Trang they, along with cyclos (three-wheeled pedicabs) and xe oms (motorbike taxis), are plentiful but ask the driver to turn on the meter or at least negotiate the fare before you head off.
Tipping
Tipping is a relatively new phenomenon in Vietnam thanks to the arrival of mass tourism. If you're happy with the service, consider leaving an extra 10 per cent.
Currency
Vietnamese dong (d) or US dollar.
Packing
Mrs Smith, pack lots of flowing dresses to compete with the ao dais on show in Nha Trang. The Vietnamese have a proverb that their national dress covers everything but hides nothing, so don't be afraid to be a little provocative. Mr Smith, no such worries for you - crack out the Gap and relax.
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Worth Doing
Arts
The Chams controlled this area of Vietnam long before the Viets came to town, with the Kingdom of Champa stretching from Central Vietnam to the borders of the Khmer Empire near the Mekong Delta. Dedicated followers of Hinduism, they built delicate brick temples dedicated to their pantheon of gods and it is worth visiting the Po Nagar Cham Towers in Nha Trang. Constructed between the 7th and 12th centuries, this group of towers is a gentle introduction to Cham art and architecture.
And...
Mud, glorious mud. If spa treatments are breaking the bank, get down and dirty with a traditional mud bath. Thap Ba Hot Spring Centre (www.thapbahotspring.com.vn) offers hot thermal mud baths for less than US$10 or, if you want to save even more dollars, you can join the crowd in a communal slop. There are also hot spring baths and an outdoor heated pool with warm waterfalls, if the Nha Trang sun hasn't heated you already.
Shopping
Compared with Hanoi or Hoi An, this isn't exactly a mecca for spending your dosh. Those who enjoy a local vibe should get to Cho Dam Market, where fish, fruit and other food vendors seem to form a circle around those selling textiles, clothing and trinkets. It's not nearly as chaotic or overwhelming as other Asian markets. Tran Phu Street offers a good selection of local operators selling handicrafts: Kim Quang hand-paints T-shirts at his small shop near the sailing club.
Viewpoint
Facing due east - next stop, the Philippines - Nha Trang is the place to soak up the infinite horizon from the horizontal viewpoint of the beach. Rise early to experience the sunrise; verdant islands dot the bay and the early light shifts across the lapping waves. Sunset is no slouch either.
Something
Make a pilgrimage to the Long Son Pagoda, with its mosaic dragons, perched on a hilltop above town. Above the pagoda is the Big Buddha, a giant statue visible from all over town. Just as you can see him, he can see you, so the views over the coast are spectacular. On a more sombre note, seek out the fiery busts of Thich Quang Duc and six other monks who, in 1963, burned themselves to death in protest against the anti-Buddhist policies of the Diem government. Remember Rage Against the Machine? That was the self-immolation of Thich Quang Duc on the first album cover.
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Diary
January/February Vietnamese New Year, known as Tet, falls on the same lunar calendar dates as Chinese New Year. With much of the country on the move for holidays or family visits, securing reservations for flights and rail tickets can be a nightmare. March Held across four days during the third lunar month, the Thap Ba Festival celebrates the Holy Mother at the Po Nagar Cham Towers. There is a ritual that involves changing the clothes, as well as one revolving around worship, finishing with a series of traditional dances. June There's plenty going on during the city's Sea Festival, including street and fashion parades, cultural performances and kite flying. It takes place every two years, and the next one is in 2011.