Punta del Este, Uruguay + Add a trip

Automobiles

It's definitely worth having a car so that you can traverse wide swathes of land and seek out your favourite pocket of the coast. The capital, Montevideo, is a two-hour drive away.

Planes

Fly into Carrasco International Airport at Montevideo, and drive or take a bus to Punta del Este. Alternatively, land in Buenos Aires and hop on an hour-long connecting flight to Punta del Este - fly with Pluna, a stylish new airline (www.pluna.aero).

Trains

Dialing

+598 for Uruguay; (0)42 for Punta del Este.

Reads

Eduardo Galeano is a Uruguayan journalist and author whose Memory of Fire trilogy (a history of the Americas that blends fact, fiction and fantasy) has received rave reviews. The Purple Land by William Hudson was written towards the end of the 19th-century, and tells the story of an English gentleman's romantic (ie fruity) and political adventures in Uruguay.

Do go / Don't Go

Come here in March or April for warm water and less crowds; peak season (mid-December until mid-January) is lively to say the least.

Cuisine

The chivito is Uruguay's take on the cheeseburger - a pavement-sized sandwich stuffed with churrasco (grilled beef), bacon, mayonnaise, black or green olives, mozzarella and tomatoes, served in a bun with fries on the side. Morcilla dulce is a sweet black sausage made from blood, orange peel and walnuts; morcilla salada is its saltier cousin. Dulce de leche is a moreish milk caramel; served as a thick spread on cakes and pastries; eaten on its own; or made into toffee-like sweets. Chaja is a ball-shaped sponge cake filled with cream and jam. The tannat vine was introduced to the country by Basque settlers and yields Uruguay's most popular wine: a fruity, strong and distinctive red.

Taxis

Taxis are expensive; hiring a car or scooter is a more economical way to get around. If you do need a lift, try Conrad (+598 (0)42 490 302), Parada La Barra (+598 (0)42 771 122) or ask your hotel to call a local firm for you.

Tipping

10 per cent is fine.

Currency

The Uruguayan peso (UYU).

Packing

Your skimpiest beachwear; unabashed glamour for the bars and clubs; a Perspex tote (Prada if you're picky) so you don't have to rummage around for your beach essentials.

Arts

If you temporarily tire of beaches and bikinis, get your fix of culture with a trip to Galpon del Molino (+598 410 2592; www.galpondelmolino.com.uy). This espacio cultural in Pueblo Garzon hosts art exhibitions, film screenings and concerts.

And...

Perhaps taking inspiration from Punta's undulating waves, the bridge that leads to the surfer-central village of La Barra is as bendy as a gentle rollercoaster. Designed by engineer Leonel Viera, its unconventional structure is an apt choice for the freethinking, arty barrio.

Shopping

Be inspired at Alium Design Studio at Las Garzas and Camino a la Capilla, Pueblo Garzón (+598 (0)94 862 098; www.alium.com.uy). The owners cut their teeth at the Centre of Industrial Design in Montevideo, and have stocked this shop with trinkets and treasures. Pick up some hand-crafted leather riding gear from Talabarteria Benitez, at the corner of 25 de Agosto Street and Maldonado in San Carlos. The husband and wife team alone are worth making the trip for - he makes the leather; she is a masseuse offering treatments downstairs. Stock up on envy-inducing jewellery and home wear at Takkai Patricia Micco, at Frente a la Plaza, José Ignacio (+598 486 2515; www.takkai.com.ar).

Viewpoint

Climb to the top of the lighthouse at José Ignacio for dazzling sea-scapes.

Something

The balsa ride across from Laguna Garzón is free; the service runs from 8am to 12pm and 2pm to 6pm daily.

Early January Sports addicts will love being here during the Punta del Este Sevens, South America's leading 7's tournament (www.7punta.com/). Early February The Mardi Gras Carnival and Parade in the first week of February means the party-loving resort has even less reason to go to bed. Mid March La Fiesta Patria Gaucha in the northern town of Tacuarembo celebrates Gaucho culture, with rodeos, parades, folk music, traditional costumes and around 3,000 horses in attendance. Late June Tango Festival hits Uruguay - have a class or two before you set off to blend in with the locals.