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Automobiles

Driving in Denmark is complicated, the rules are hard to follow and the signs often indecipherable. The bikes, buses and trains make it easy to travel so no need to make it hard on yourself.

Planes

Copenhagen Kastrup Airport is seven miles from the city centre. It takes 20 minutes by train to Copenhagen Central Station with services every 10-20 minutes, costing DKK 26. If you need your hotel arrival to be seamless, a taxi fare to centre of town is usually DKK 220.

Trains

The main train station is right next to the Tivoli Gardens. To get beyond the city, consult Danish State Railways at www.dsb.dk.

Dialing

Country code for Denmark: +45. There are no area codes.

Reads

Fairy Tales by Hans Christian Andersen; Taschen's Scandinavian Design by Charlotte and Peter Fiell.

Do go / Don't Go

The weather tends to be overcast in January and February, although that could be a good thing if you want to miss the crowds and cuddle up in front of the hotel fire. Summer allows you to take part in Copenhagen's beach culture but spring and autumn are also enjoyable times of year when days are mild and uncrowded. The Tivoli Gardens are open from April to September and before Halloween and Christmas.

Cuisine

Delicious cakes are available everywhere if you can't face that cheese and rye bread thing for breakfast. There's much more to Danish cuisine than herring, but it would be wrong to overlook this most Scandinavian of dishes. Actually it's delicious and there seems to be over 200 ways to dress it. It's also amazing for your skin, which might explain Helena Christiansen's glow. Excellent local seafood and Copenhagen's international influences have given the city some great sushi restaurants, too. Hearty pork dishes with pickled garnishes will keep you warm in the winter.

Taxis

Nothing comes that cheap in Copenhagen but taxis are particularly pricey and given the compact size of the centre, a stroll to the next destination is the best way to see the city and discover another street of infinite grooviness. You can hail a cab if the yellow 'Taxa' light is illuminated. Or call 70 25 25 25.

Tipping

Not necessary and not part of the Danish way, but gestures for good service are appreciated.

Currency

Danish Krone (Kr/DKK).

Packing

The winter is relentless and wet, so omit a coat and umbrella at your peril. A lacy thermal in winter to protect against that northerly exposure may also prove clever. Stylish flats for walking and your best groovy gear for hitting the bars and the über-cool crowds.

Arts

Copenhagen is one of Europe's design capitals. Pay a visit to the Danish Design Centre on HC Andersen Boulevard. It's worth it for the strange 'supermarket' in the basement alone. The Charlottenborg on Nyhaven is dedicated to contemporary art and housed in a 17th-century baroque palace (www.charlottenborg-art.dk).

And...

Shopping

Fashion is big in Copenhagen, and it's by exploring the independent boutiques that you'll find the most individual pieces. The central shopping area is the pedestrianised Strøget where you'll find the main brands and the Illum department store - Illums Bolighus is filled with Danish design classics. At the far end of Strøget, Gronnegade and Ny Adelgade are great areas for shoes, clothes and accessories. Day Birger et Mikkleson in Kongens Nytorv is one of Denmark's leading fashion labels. Also, track down Acne Jeans on Gammel Mønt and Bruuns Bazaar on Kronprinsensgade for the very latest in Danish style. There are several outposts of Cykelmageren in the city; it's the best place to pick up gorgeous hand-made bikes.

Viewpoint

For a truly unbeatable view of the city take a trip on the Golden Tower or Star Flyer rides at the Tivoli Gardens - although neither of these are for the faint-hearted. For something a bit more sedate, the Rundetaarn (Round Tower) on Kobmagergade is a former observatory with a 209-metre spiral ramp that leads to a view of the Old Town. Its library hall also hosts changing art exhibitions (www.rundetaarn.dk).

Something

The Little Mermaid is the symbol of the city although even the locals seem uncertain as to why such a diminutive statue commands so much attention. The mermaid is located near Kastellet fortress and it's a pleasant waterfront walk to reach her. If you pass the royal palace in Amalienborg Plads at noon, you can see the changing of the Royal Guard.

July The acclaimed Copenhagen Jazz festival (www.jazzfestival.dk) and the Danish Glastonbury equivalent, the Roskilde Festival (www.roskilde-festival.dk), are both a treat for music lovers. September The Copenhagen Art Fair showcases contemporary and modern art from over fifty galleries in Denmark, Norway and Sweden, covering everything from photography to ceramics (www.artcopenhagen.dk). Mid October Kulturnatten (Culture Night) sees free concerts, film screenings and exhibitions throughout Copenhagen.