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Chichén-Itzá, Mexico + Add a trip

Mr & Mrs Smith

on Yucatán


Cityscape: Mayan ruins and maize fields
City Life: Hammocks and haciendas

The 'hood of the Maya, the Yucatán is a flat, hot land of epic former empires, of mighty Mayan temples and sophisticated cities…

This ancient civilisation was conquered by the Spanish in 1542, when the conquistadors founded Mérida, now the state capital. They discovered beaches and azure waters first, but what the awe-struck adventurers hadn't expected was the architectural achievement they witnessed across the Maya's territory - comprising neighbouring Chiapas, Guatemala, and some of Belize and Honduras. The evocative ruins of their temples remain, as do many elements of Mayan culture. See its influence in everything from the fiery food to the vibrant fiestas that give the region its extra-exotic sense. There's an aura of primeval mystery in its limestone landscape of underground rivers and sacred pools. The state's tourist favourite, Chichén Itzá, is an extensive ceremonial centre, with its own temples, steam bath and great ball court. Post-Maya, fine colonial cities await in Mérida, Izamal and Valladolid. This vast, arid land of porous limestone sits just 12m above sea level. It's home to more flamingos than anywhere else in North America. You'll need plenty of time; there's a lot to conquer.

  • + Getting There

    Automobiles

    It's worth hiring a car to explore further afield, but taxis are very reasonably priced. International firms such as Alamo and Europcar have desks at Mérida airport.

    Planes

    Cancún International is the main airport, with direct flights to and from the UK. From Miami, you'll be able to get to Cancún via an hour-long flight with Aeromexico (www.aeromexico.com).

    Trains

  • + Local Knowledge

    Dialing

    Country code for Mexico: 52; Mérida: 999; Campeche: 981.

    Reads

    The Lost Chronicles of the Mayan Kings by David Drew; Beyond the Mexique Bay by Aldous Huxley; The Nine Guardians by Rosario Castellanos.

    Do go / Don't Go

    The rainy season is mid-August to mid-October - expect afternoon showers. November and early December are likely to be less crowded as well as less expensive.

    Cuisine

    Chillies are important to Yucatecan cooking, ranging from mildly piquant to eye-wateringly ferocious, but fortunately they are normally served separately so you can choose your own level of volcanicity. Marinades of lime juice and herbs such as coriander are popular, especially with the abundant seafood. Maize tortillas are a delicious-with-guacamole staple.

    Taxis

    Make sure you establish a price for your trip before you set off as few taxis have meters. Most cities have ranks.

    Tipping

    Wages are low in this part of the world and most workers survive on their tips; 10-15 per cent is the norm, although taxi drivers won't usually expect anything.

    Currency

    Mexican peso (the US dollar is also widely accepted).

    Packing

    You'll wish you had some insect repellent handy at the inland ruins. And perhaps your own chisel and trowel.

  • + Worth Doing

    Arts

    The Mayan's reclaimed-from-the-jungle cities are scattered throughout the area. The most famous are Chichén Itzá, Uxmal and, down towards the Riviera Maya, Cobá and Tulum - marked by temple-pyramids, sacred ball courts, palaces and sacrificial altars. The state capital Mérida was founded on the Mayan city of T'ho - and the ancient civilisation's carved stones were used in the construction of the colonial cathedrals and mansions that line the Paseo de Montejo. In the 'yellow city' of Izamal, San Antonio de Padua is a monastery built on the platform of the Mayan temple that existed on the site.

    And...

    Birdwatchers will love the Yucatán for its 442 species (including the region's own wren and the visiting Brown Noddy), 11 of which you'll only ever spy in these tropical parts.

    Shopping

    Head to Mérida to take your pick of Yucatecan handicrafts - stock up on palm-woven panama hats, locally made licqueurs, earthenware and traditional Mayan clothing, such as the embroidered huipiles (tunics).

    Viewpoint

    Climb up the Great Pyramid at Uxmal for a view out across the classic Mayan site - you'll be able to see the carved turtles, jaguars and snakes adorning the crumbling stone exteriors.

    Something

    The area's limestone landscape is dotted with cenotes - pools connected by a network of underground caverns and rivers. Regarded as sacred sites by the Maya, who thought they represented the entrance to the underworld, they also make refreshing places to swim.

  • + Diary

    2 February The Día de la Candelaria (Candlemas) festival is celebrated all over Mexico with candlelit celebrations. Late February Carnaval takes place in the week prior to Ash Wednesday, and has become a major event in Mérida and Campeche. 5 May Cinco de Mayo marks a huge celebration to commemorate the Mexican victory in the Battle of Puebla. 16 September Mexicans celebrate being Mexican on Independence Day. 31 October-2 November The Day of the Dead festival celebrations combine pre-Columbian ancestor worship with elements of Halloween.

A printable version of this destination guide is available from Mr & Mrs Smith.
©2008 Mr & Mrs Smith