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Mr & Mrs Smith

on Atlas Mountains


Cityscape: Untouched mountainside
City Life: Rural as can be

Marrakech gives a very European impression of Morocco. Head just few hours out of the city and you'll find a completely different atmosphere.

Modernity isn't a big thing in the mountains south of Marrakech, where Berber culture is strong, and tourism mainly confined to trekkers. Two specific draws are the snaking road south to Taroudannt; and Imlil, Asni and Aremd, the Berber villages en route to the highest peak, the Djebel Toubkal. But sights aren't what the High Atlas is about - it's the views. Almond blossom at Ouirgane; winter snow at Ouïkaimeden; wild nature and traditional villages all year round.

  • + Getting There

    Automobiles

    This is 4x4 country, and you'll pay up to 1,000Dh a day for a Suzuki or a Mitsubishi, though you're probably better off hiring a mule for the day unless you're used to the dirt roads. The best way to get out to the High Atlas is in one of the big Merc 'grands taxis'.

    Planes

    Fly into Marrakech with BA, Air France or Royal Air Maroc. EasyJet starts daily flights from Gatwick in July.

    Trains

  • + Local Knowledge

    Dialing

    Code for Morocco: +212.

    Reads

    Lords of the Atlas by Gavin Maxwell.

    Do go / Don't Go

    There's skiing of a kind in Oukaïmeden in winter, though good snow isn't guaranteed. Trekking is best in spring when the almond blossom is particularly lovely. The cooler temperatures in autumn make this a good time too. High summer is still a good time for the mountains, unless you're intending to climb Mount Toubkal.

    Cuisine

    Couscous and tajine are the staples. Sweet mint tea is ubiquitous.

    Taxis

    A 'grand taxi' will take up to six - explain first if you don't want to share with other parties. Establish a price for your trip before you set off.

    Tipping

    Sling porters and anyone who helps you out along the way maybe five or ten dirhams. Taxis tend to overcharge, so don't feel you need to add extra.

    Currency

    Dirham (Dh).

    Packing

    A Polaroid camera, so you can give locals an instant family portrait.

  • + Worth Doing

    Arts

    The Tin Mal mosque, beyond Ouirgane, dates from 1153, and is one of the only mosques a non-Muslim can enter (except on Fridays, when prayers still take place). It was restored in the Nineties, and is historically extremely interesting - but you'll have to read up before you get there, since there's not so much as a leaflet to be had inside.

    And...

    Atlas Sahara Trek, 6 bis rue Houdhoud, Quartier Majorelle (+212 (0)524 31 39 01) is a reputable agency that has been running trips out to the High Atlas for many years.

    Shopping

    You can watch Berber barbers and donkey traders at work at the Saturday souk at Asni. The textiles you'll find for sale in the hills can be of good quality.

    Viewpoint

    Beautiful views are everywhere. In spring, the patchwork of colour on the hillsides is food for the soul.

    Something

    Fresh mountain air! The people up here live on so little, you won't be looking to get anything out of them...

  • + Diary

    August A four-day moussem in Setti Fatma is a reasonably accessible traditional fair, in a village famous for its seven waterfalls.

A printable version of this destination guide is available from Mr & Mrs Smith.
©2008 Mr & Mrs Smith