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Mr & Mrs Smith

on Florence


Cityscape: Rich Renaissance tapestry
City Life: Shopping and strolling

For a city boasting more past glories than the average continent, the capital of Tuscany is excitingly forward-looking.

A love affair between culture, commerce and good living, Florence has long been celebrated as the most aesthetically pleasing city in all Italy, if not the world. And between the fairytale squares, centuries-old churches and sprawling palaces run streets alive with sociability, style and irresistible shopping.

  • + Getting There

    Automobiles

    Having a car in Florence can be a hindrance, but is essential if you want to explore the surrounding Tuscan countryside.

    Planes

    The nearest airport is a 20-min drive from the centre of town, and a taxi costs roughly €15. You can also fly into Pisa airport, from where a direct train takes 45 minutes and costs €5.

    Trains

    The main station is behind Piazza Santa Maria Novella, for connections to the rest of Europe.

  • + Local Knowledge

    Dialing

    Country code for Italy: 39. Florence: 055.

    Reads

    A Room with a View by EM Forster; The Decameron by Giovanni Boccaccio.

    Do go / Don't Go

    Florence is packed with tourists throughout the summer months, when it's also very humid.

    Cuisine

    Pasta e fagioli (beans), T-bone steak, game, Chianti. Panforte nero di Siena: a spicy confection of almonds, honey, cocoa and candied peel.

    Taxis

    You can't hail a cab on the street; go to a designated fermata di taxi.

    Tipping

    Five to ten per cent.

    Currency

    Euro.

    Packing

    A sketchbook, a sunhat, sensible shoes.

  • + Worth Doing

    Arts

    Sixty per cent of the world's most important works of art are housed in Italy and half of these are in Florence. The Cathedral of Santa Maria dei Fiori, aka the Duomo, was built in 1434, and its dome is a celebrated feat of engineering. The Bargello contains an unrivalled collection of Renaissance sculptures (www.sbas.firenze.it/bargello). The famous Uffizi houses Botticellis, Michelangelos and da Vincis; reserve tickets (www.polomuseale.firenze.it).

    And...

    Tea on the outside terrace of the Villa San Michele hotel in Fiesole. A romantic day out to San Gimignano, a mediaeval town with towers, cobbled streets and very romantic views.

    Shopping

    The Mercato Centrale in San Lorenzo is a huge covered food market crammed with every kind of local speciality. The market on Sundays around Piazza San Lorenzo is a little disappointing; try the fleamarket at Piazza dei Ciompi instead. For designer clothes, Luisa Via Roma on Via Roma is a high-fashion multi-designer boutique. Universo Sanchez on Via il Prato is a lifestyle shop with clothes, a bar and a barber. For interior design, try Flair on Lungarno Guicciardini.

    Viewpoint

    Climb the 414 steps to the top of the Campanile, or up the Duomo itself for a 360-degree view of Florence. Drive up to Fiesole and look down across the entire town.

    Something

    Stroll along the Ponte Vecchio; gaze at Michelangelo's David.

  • + Diary

    Florence hosts five major international fashion events yearly. May-June Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, at the Teatro Comunale, is one of Europe's oldest music fests (www.maggiofiorentino.com). 11-24 June The Festival of San Giovanni; highlights include the regatta, near Ponte Vecchio, and fireworks in Piazzale Michelangelo. 7 September Rificolona festival, when children carry lanterns in a grand procession, and there are street performances and parties.

A printable version of this destination guide is available from Mr & Mrs Smith.
©2008 Mr & Mrs Smith