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Mr & Mrs Smith

on Monte Carlo


Cityscape: Ritzy Riviera
City Life: In the fast lane

If Monte Carlo were in the thesaurus, it would be a synonym for casinos, luxury yachts and Formula 1.

And Monte Carlo is certainly glossy. But it's not all bright lights, small city: the narrow cobblestone streets of Monaco-Ville on the Rock lead you through a mediaeval and Gothic past, and the 13th-century prince's palace is one of the most historic sites on the Côte d'Azur.

  • + Getting There

    Automobiles

    Driving to Monaco is easy and most hotels have their own carparks, but expect to pay a daily charge.

    Planes

    The nearest airport is Nice, about a 20-min drive away. Hire a car, get a bus (which takes 45 mins and costs about €23 return), or grab a taxi for around €70.

    Trains

    Trains run regularly to and from Nice and other French cities.

  • + Local Knowledge

    Dialing

    Country code for Monaco: 377. No city code.

    Reads

    Tender is the Night by F Scott Fitzgerald.

    Do go / Don't Go

    If you want to see the Grand Prix, make sure you book at least two years in advance as most of the hotels are filled by the racing teams.

    Cuisine

    Monégasque cuisine is influenced by classic French, Provençal and Italian cooking: expect to eat bouillabaisse, tapenade, great seafood - but also haute cuisine with fine wines.

    Taxis

    Hail a taxi from anywhere in the street.

    Tipping

    Ten to 12 per cent is normal.

    Currency

    Euro.

    Packing

    A black credit card; your best party frock.

  • + Worth Doing

    Arts

    In the Fontvieille Harbour, it's worth visiting the Prince of Monaco's private collection of classic cars (www.palais.mc).

    And...

    Kick off your break Dynasty-style and take advantage of the half-hourly helicopter shuttle service from Nice airport; it takes just six mins and costs €70 or €135 return with Heli Air (92 05 00 50; www. heliair.monaco.com), or book with Monacair (97 97 39 00).

    Shopping

    The main retail area is around Boulevard des Moulins and in the Metropole Mall; folk with simple sartorial tastes may find what's on offer overly glitzy and glam. If you fancy shopping in San Remo instead, you can charter a helicopter to Italy for the day through Heli Air (92 05 00 50; www.heliair.monaco.com).

    Viewpoint

    From the exotic gardens, and from the square in front of the Prince's Palace.

    Something

    The changing of the guard, every day at 11h55, at Place du Palais.

  • + Diary

    January Monte Carlo International Circus Festival in Fontvieille Big Top. February Primo Cup sailing competition (www.yacht-club-monaco.mc). April Tennis Masters (www.masters-series.com/montecarlo); Spring Arts Festival. May Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix (www.monte-carlo.mc/formule1); Classic Car Grand Prix (www.acm.mc). November National Day. December Dance festival at Grimaldi Forum and Salle des Variétés.