Reykjavic, Iceland + Add a trip
on Reykjavík
City Life: Going to extremes
Located on the edge of the Arctic Circle and surrounded by a volcanic landscape, Reykjavík has developed its own fascinating and wonderfully idiosyncratic sense of style.
Far from being some remote and frozen outpost, visitors quickly discover that Reykjavík has nightlife every bit as hot as the city's geothermally heated pools. The locals are also some of the warmest people you'll ever meet. Many of them believe in the existence of elves and trolls, which we find weirdly charming. With a unique combination of glaciers, volcanoes, hip clubs and stylish bars, there's ample opportunity to explore the wild and untamed. If you're looking for something a little different, then Reykjavík is most definitely it.
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Getting There
Automobiles
A car is an advantage if you want to explore the otherworldly volcanic landscape beyond the city. Roads are uncrowded but sudden severe weather conditions and unsurfaced dirt tracks can quickly turn an excursion into an adventure. It's best to organise trips out of town with a local tour company, otherwise your best bet is a hire car from Hertz at Keflavík Airport (+354 425 0221) as Smith cardholders get a ten per cent discount at Hertz. Go to www.hertz.co.uk for more details, and quote '635230' when reserving.
Planes
Keflavík airport is 35 miles from the city centre. The 50-min Flybus service meets incoming flights and costs ISK 1,150. The driver will deliver you to the door of your hotel in Reykjavík. A taxi from the airport is an expensive option, costing at least ISK 7,500.
Trains
There are no rail services in Iceland.
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Local Knowledge
Dialing
354 is the country code.
Reads
101 Reykjavík by Hallgrímur Helgason; Independent People by Hallðór Laxness. The celebrated sagas are not just heroic tales of feuding Vikings, raiding parties and hidden gold; they are a living tradition and a cornerstone of Icelandic culture. Hermann Pálsson's translation of Égill's Saga is one of the best.
Do go / Don't Go
In the height of summer the sun hardly slips below the horizon. If the mood takes you, the long hours of sunlight make it possible to play golf in the middle of the night. Winter is the complete opposite, with long hours of darkness, but perfect conditions for snowmobiling and dog-sledding.
Cuisine
The seafood is so good that Iceland fought the Cod War against Britain in the Seventies to protect its fishing grounds. The fresh langoustine, herring and salmon are delicious. The national delicacy of hákárl (putrefied shark meat) is strictly for gastro adventurers only.
Taxis
The city centre is comfortably walkable. Taxis are relatively inexpensive for short journeys though they can be scarce in the small hours. The main taxi ranks are located on Lækjargata and opposite Hallgrímskirkja church.
Tipping
Tipping is practically unheard of in Iceland; it could even be regarded as vaguely insulting. A service charge is automatically added to most bills.
Currency
Icelandic króna.
Packing
Iceland's weather is notoriously unpredictable but you can always warm up in one of the many geothermally heated hot pools. Pack a thick jumper and some swimwear - although you'll only need the latter when bathing. The smell of wet wool ain't so sexy.
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Worth Doing
Arts
Kjarvalsstaðir Art Gallery on Flokagata displays the collection of Johánnes S. Kjarval (1885-1872), Iceland's most celebrated landscape artist. Kling and Bang on Laugavegur is a modern art space with exhibitions by young Icelandic artists (www.this.is/klingogbang). Hotel 101 on Hverfisgata has its own excellent gallery a few doors down the street. Unfortunately the infamous Phallological Museum, displaying over 150 penises from Icelandic land and sea mammals, has moved to northern Iceland - much to the relief of the local wildlife.
And...
Undoubtedly tourist, but definitely worth a visit, is the Blue Lagoon; the country's most visited attraction. The warm, milky-blue water is said to have curative properties, even if it actually flows from a near-by geothermal power station. The lagoon is between Reykjavik and the airport so it's a great place to relax before your flight home (www.bluelagoon.com).
Shopping
Kisan on Laugavegi is a charming French-Icelandic-owned boutique selling homewares, books and children's clothes. Right next door, Trilogia doubles as an exhibition space and shop selling the work of Icelandic and northern European designers. Naked Ape on Bankastræti sells brightly coloured handmade t-shirts and clubwear and hosts parties; it even offers hairstyling services. Pick up some Icelandic music at 12 Tónar on Skólavörðustígur, where the staff are always on hand to recommend their favourites.
Viewpoint
Take the lift up the tower of Hallgrímskirkja church for a super view of the city. On a clear day, if you're lucky, you can see as far as the Snæfellsness glacier of Jules Verne fame.
Something
Reykjavík's far-northerly location makes it a great place to see the Northern Lights. A cold, clear winter night is the best time to watch the ghostly swirls of red and green traced across the sky.
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Diary
February The Winter Lights Festival helps perk up the city after several months of long, dark nights. With sunrise in winter not much before midday you can't blame the locals for getting excited. 17 June Independence Day parades, music and dancing to celebrate Iceland's independence from Denmark in 1944. 21 June The Summer Solstice Festival sees traditional Viking celebrations marking the longest day of the year. August Menninganótt 'Cultural Night', with music and fireworks late into the night. Late September-early October Reykjavík International Film Festival (www.filmfest.is). October Iceland Airwaves is an incredibly popular music festival showcasing Icelandic and International artists (www.icelandairwaves.com).