Irákleion, Greece + Add a trip
on Crete
City Life: Minoans, myths and moustaches
The birthplace of Minoan civilisation was bound to be beautiful, cultured and rich in history; the island's Riviera-rivalling beaches, mysterious caves and deeply traditional, hospitable locals are unexpected extras.
Thankfully Theseus killed off the Minotaur (murderous King Minos came to a sticky end not long after), so there's no reason not to come to this poet-inspiring island. One look at the landscape and it's clear why it's the stuff of legends: milky white stretches of sand, dramatic canyons, deep gorges, verdant olive groves, wild flowers, ancient towns and hilltop villages. The imprint of the island's varied cultured custodians remains today; Minoan palaces sit side by side with Ottoman mosques and Byzantine monasteries and the ruins at Knossos, Malia, Zakros and Phaistos will impress even the most reluctant of historians.
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Getting There
Automobiles
Planes
The three main airports are Heraklion, Chania and Sitia. Easyjet serves the former, with direct flights from LGW (www.easyjet.com). BMI, Multiple Airlines, Aegean Airways and Olympic Air also offer indirect flights to Heraklion and Chania, with stop-offs in Athens, Eleftherios Venizelos and sometimes Munich.
Trains
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Local Knowledge
Dialing
Greece: +30; Crete: +30
Reads
Go highbrow with a copy of Erotokritos by Vitsentzos Kornaros. This 17th-century romantic poem focuses on two lovers, and is widely viewed as a Cretan literary masterpiece. For a more modern (best selling) read try The Island by Victoria Hislop, in which a daughter's quest to know more about her mother leads her to Crete and the island of Spinalonga, a former leper colony. From lepers to laughs - You are Here by Steven Horsfall features men behaving badly: four likely lads travel to Crete from Britain to try their luck with the ladies.
Do go / Don't Go
Crete has a long high season - from mid April to October. The island sizzles and simmers in June and July, with temperatures above 40 degrees, so avoid these months if you're no sun worshipper.
Cuisine
Expect the freshest of food and a hands-on approach (literally). To blend in when eating out, order a selection of dishes all at once, put everything in the centre of the table and eat your feast with your fingers.
Taxis
Flagging down a taxi in the mountains might prove irksome; ask your hotel to book cabs for you.
Tipping
Add 10-12 per cent to your restaurant bill in change - if you use a card, the staff won't reap the benefit. Also, should a Cretan take you out, don't insist on paying the bill; what may seem polite may be perceived as rude.
Currency
Euro (€).
Packing
An insatiable appetite for facing the tenacious taverna owners; a good map of Crete, binoculars and an Ariadne-style ball of string for navigating the rural roads.
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Worth Doing
Arts
And...
Boogie like the Byzantines to kritika, Crete's traditional folk music, in which the lyre and lute feature largely. Kríti Kafé on Kalergón Street in Chania is the best spot to hear the musicians play and watch the locals dance - a glug of tsikoudia (a grape spirit) will get you on the dance floor.
Shopping
Stop off in the local crafts shops at Heraklion, Rethmynon and Chania and buy souvenirs: pottery, flokatis (handmade rugs) and traditional knives.
Viewpoint
In ancient times, worshippers trekked to the stalagmite-studded Dikteon Cave to leave offerings for the gods; according to legend, the cave was Zeus' birthplace. Today people come here for the spectacular views of the Lasithi plateau and the surrounding mountains. The steep 20-minute walk to get to the cave is more than worth it.
Something
Stay on your best behaviour in the tavernas and at the end of your meal, it's likely that ice-cold shots of knee-weakening Raki and a miniature plate of desert will arrive unsolicited at your elbows. It's considered deeply rude to refuse these free treats, so however full you are, dig in…
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Diary
April-May Easter is one of the biggest events in the Cretan diary, with bonfires in the villages, feasts, candle-lit processions, effigy burnings and games (including a take on conkers involving dyed red eggs). August On the first Sunday after Assumption Day, a traditional Cretan wedding takes place in the village of Kritsa. Pay €20 and you can gatecrash the wedding feast. October The beginning of the Raki distilling season involves a flurry of festivities - befriend the locals to secure an invite. Rumour has it that Raki leaves no hangover...