Eyzerac, France + Add a trip

Automobiles

A car is indispensable for exploring the vineyards and countryside.

Planes

The low-cost airlines fly to Bergerac airport, 5km southeast of the town centre. There are also regular flights to Bordeaux throughout the year.

Trains

The high-speed TGV from Paris to Bordeaux takes three and a half hours. It's eight hours from London via Eurostar. Bordeaux to Bergerac takes one hour.

Dialing

Country code for France: 33. Bergerac: 05.

Reads

Cyrano de Bergerac by Edmond Rostand; The Generous Earth by Philip Oyler.

Do go / Don't Go

Spring is sunny but changeable, with May and June absolute perfection. Summer is busy but ideal for canoeing on the Dordogne. September and October see fine weather and the all-important grape harvest. Winters are usually wet and mild.

Cuisine

The Périgord conjures up gastronomic dreams of wine, walnut oil, mushrooms and truffles, not to mention the ducks and geese reared to produce foie gras. A Périgord speciality is roast goose fried in its own fat with Landaise potatoes. If you can possibly eat any more, try some goat's cheese or walnut tart with strawberries.

Taxis

There's no chance of hailing a cab out in the sticks. In Bergerac, call 05 53 23 32 32 to pre-book your ride. Or burn off those foie gras calories and hire bicycles from Apolo on 05 53 61 08 16.

Tipping

Service charges are always added to restaurant bills, but a few extra euros are appropriate for waiters and taxi drivers.

Currency

Euro.

Packing

A pinny for wannabe chefs, scales for the gourmands.

Arts

The Dordogne is dotted with castles and châteaux. Two of the best are the Renaissance Château de Puyguilhem near the town of St-Jean-de-Côle and the very grand Château de Hautefort, with its wonderful gardens, northwest of Brive-la-Gaillarde.

And...

Shopping

In Bergerac, Bille de Bois in Place du Docteur André Cayla is filled with old-fashioned wooden toys. There's so much fabulous local wine to choose from; try the velvety Monbazillac, a sweet white wine often drunk to mark special occasions. There are markets in Bergerac on Wednesdays and Saturdays, Lalinde on Thursdays, Libourne on Fridays and Sarlat on Saturday. Bergerac's fleamarket sells antiques and bric-à-brac on the first Sunday of the month.

Viewpoint

The village of La Roque-Gageac, near the charming mediaeval town of Sarlat, clings to the cliffs overlooking the Dordogne valley. The most striking view is from the ruins of the troglodyte fort at the top of a vertiginous ladder.

Something

The suitably haughty statue of Cyrano de Bergerac takes pride of place in Bergerac's Place Pélissière. The statue's famously protruding nose is often stolen.

Early May The châteaux of St-Émilion open their wine cellars for a day, usually on a Sunday; some offer free samples. Late June Every two years Bordeaux holds its three-day Fête du Vin, with wine tasting, concerts and auctions. 14 July Bergerac's magnificent four-day food and wine festival sees tables in the streets and free concerts in the evening (www.pays-de-bergerac.com). Mid-August Brive-la-Gaillarde has a ten-day festival of classical music concerts. Third Sunday of September The start of the wine harvest is announced from the Tour du Roi in St-Émilion, accompanied by parades; see www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com for details.