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Mr & Mrs Smith

on Bordeaux


Cityscape: Grand designs
City Life: Le monde des gourmands

Bordeaux is a city of grandeur and sophistication, of old money and legendary vintages, where connoisseurs can take the time to savour wines and cuisine perfected over generations.

This grande dame on the banks of the softly-flowing Garonne ages with effortless grace; its wide boulevards, majestic squares and elegant 18th-century mansions are filled with timeless charm. Surrounded by ancient châteaux and some of the most valuable vineyards in the world, each autumn harvest brings another crop of imperious reds and sweet whites. Beyond, the precious earth fades into the dunes of the Atlantic seaboard, where the waters are rich with oysters and seafood destined for the tables of the Bordeaux's gourmands. Here the good life is served on a plate and time is measured by the popping of corks.

  • + Getting There

    Automobiles

    The warren of narrow one-way streets in the centre is largely pedestrianised, but it's useful to have a car to visit the beach or follow the wine trails.

    Planes

    Bordeaux-Mérignac airport is six miles from the city centre. There is a shuttle bus service to the centre every 45 minutes, taking half an hour.

    Trains

    TGV links Bordeaux to the Eurostar terminals in Paris (3hrs) and Lille (5hrs). The main station is about ten minutes outside the centre.

  • + Local Knowledge

    Dialing

    Country code for France: 33. Bordeaux: 05. Drop the zero when dialling locally.

    Reads

    Wines of Bordeaux by David Peppercorn; French Lessons: Adventures with Knife, Fork and Corkscrew by Peter Mayle.

    Do go / Don't Go

    The summer is pleasantly warm, but August can be humid and the city crowded with tourists. Book in advance if you want to visit the vineyards at this time of year. Many châteaux are closed to visitors during the grape harvest in October. Winter is mild.

    Cuisine

    The cuisine of Bordeaux blends Atlantic seafood with the rich produce of the neighbouring Dordogne and Périgord regions. Oysters, eel, lamprey and sturgeon are all local specialities, as are river fish grilled over vine twigs. This is also the place to enjoy purple and green asparagus, foie gras and delicious lamb from Pauillac. It goes without saying that Bordeaux wine is some of the finest in the world. The Bergerac region also has some excellent wines at reasonable prices.

    Taxis

    There are taxi ranks throughout the city. If you need to order a taxi, try Allo Bordeaux Taxis 05 56 31 61 07.

    Tipping

    Service charges are included automatically on all French restaurant bills but it's usual to leave a few euros for the waiter.

    Currency

    Euro.

    Packing

    A map of the Bordeaux and Bergerac wine regions.

  • + Worth Doing

    Arts

    The riverfront was the source of Bordeaux's wealth and is lined with mansions from the city's heyday in the 18th century. La Place de la Bourse is the perfect choice for an evening stroll.

    And...

    Shopping

    For boutiques brim-full with style, head to the streets around Place des Grands Hommes, particularly Cours de l'Intendance, Allées de Tourny and Cours Clemencau. Pick up gifts at Sequoia on Cours de Verdun and chic fabrics at Toiles de Mayenne on Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau. The former wine merchants' district of Chartrons has plenty of antique shops to explore along Rue Notre Dame. Gourmands should visit the Sunday morning market on the waterfront next to the battleship Colbert. There's also a fleamarket around St Michael's basilica on Saturday mornings.

    Viewpoint

    The Hauterive Saint James hotel in the peaceful village of Bouliac, just outside Bordeaux, has wonderful views over the Garonne and the vineyards towards the city. The hotel was designed by cult modernist architect Jean Nouvel and has a fine gourmet restaurant serving excellent French cuisine.

    Something

    The beautiful Jardins Public is an idyllic green space in the heart of the city, with ornamental lakes, landscaped gardens and secluded picnic spots.

  • + Diary

    First week of July The four-day Fête du Vin is held on the riverside on even years celebrating Bordeaux's most famous export with wine tasting, concerts and auctions (www.bordeaux-fete-le-vin.com). September The Médoc marathon winds its way through the vineyards and awards the winner their own bodyweight in claret. Third Sunday of September The town of St-Émilion announces the start of the wine harvest from the top of the Tour du Roi in the centre of town. November The Bordeaux Arts Festival sees a month-long programme of concerts, exhibitions and performances in venues around the city.

A printable version of this destination guide is available from Mr & Mrs Smith.
©2008 Mr & Mrs Smith