Biarritz, France + Add a trip

Automobiles

Choose from five car-hire desks at Biarritz Airport, including Hertz (www.hertz.com) and Avis (www.avis.com). It's an easy area to drive around; the E70 coast road caters for most needs. Inland routes around Ahetze can be more twisty-turny, and Guéthary and Bidart are hilly.

Planes

Biarritz airport has connections to London Gatwick and other UK cities. In Spain, Bilbao's architecturally impressive Sondika airport is the largest in the region, with direct flights to a number of European hubs, including London Stansted via EasyJet.

Trains

Vitoria is oFrom Gare Montparnasse in Paris, direct trains to Biarritz take just over five hours (www.seat61.com). Once you're down there, there are rail services across the border between Biarritz and San Sebastián via Irun (www.tgv.com).

Dialing

For France: +33; for Spain: +34.

Reads

Paddy Woodworth's The Basque Country: A Cultural History and The Basque History of the World by Mark Kurlansky are essential tomes for amateur anthropologists. Gastronomes should pick up a copy of Kurlansky's companion volume Cod: A Biography of the Fish That Changed the World, which, as well as explaining how the Basques discovered America, is also the most entertaining fish book ever.

Do go / Don't Go

The landscape doesn't go green on its own: Atlantic fronts bring wind and drizzle throughout the year. July and August are driest, hottest and busiest, so aim for May, June or September - but still make sure you pack a waterproof.

Cuisine

The Atlantic coast means abundant fresh fish and seafood. Try bacalao (salt cod), chipirons (baby squid), and kokotxas (hake throats - a delicacy).Other regional treats include slightly sparkling txakoli wine, and sagardo, aka Basque cider. Strings of dried red peppers, or piments d'Espelette, are the Basque answer to bunting, and sold as souvenirs.

Taxis

In Biarritz and other biggish towns, there are taxi stands. Out in the sticks, you're best off booking ahead. Around Biarritz, try Atlantic (+33 (0)5 59 03 18 18). Agur (+33 (0)5 59 47 38 38) is good for Saint-Jean-de-Luz.

Tipping

Tips are not expected, especially for set lunches or pintxos, but small change is always welcomed. Service charges are rarely added to restaurant bills, and 10 per cent is considered generous - most locals stick to five.

Currency

Euro (€).

Packing

Stash your surfboard if you plan to ride the waves, or broken-in hiking boots if you want to yomp the Pyrénées.

Arts

The city of Bayonne brought chocolate to France, using cocoa beans swiped from the Americas by Columbus. Biarritz's Musée du Chocolat gives you the full story, as well as tasting opportunities (www.planetemuseeduchocolat.com). Traditionally woven to protect cattle from the sun, colourful and stripy Basque fabrics are renowned. The Jean-Vier Basque Eco-Museum in Saint-Jean-de-Luz takes you on a tour of textile traditions, with digressions into Basque culinary and festival heritage (www.jean-vier.com).

And...

Thalassotherapy, a range of seawater-based body treatments, is widely offered in Pays Basque spas. In Saint-Jean-de-Luz, we recommend the spa at the Helianthal Hotel (www.helianthal.fr).

Shopping

Aquitaine isn't about to creep up on Milan in fashion terms, though there is a smattering of boutiques and surfwear shops in Biarritz and Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Rue Mazagran is Biarritz's Oxford Street: try Boo (+33 (0)5 59 24 61 21) for silver jewellery, and Euskal Linge (+33 (0)5 59 24 76 61) or Helena (+33 (0)5 59 24 06 23) for Basque linen. Côté Lorio (+33 (0)5 59 26 78 38) on Boulevard Thiers in Saint-Jean-de-Luz is an enchanting interiors store, and you can load up on macaroons at Maison Adam on Place Louis XIV (+33 (0)5 59 26 03 54). In Guéthary, Poterie Guéthary at 49 Avenue Harispe (+33 (0)5 59 26 57 14) sells locally made ceramics. There are food markets at Les Halles in Biarritz, Monday to Saturday; the biggest market day in Saint-Jean-de-Luz market is Friday.

Viewpoint

On a clear day, take the cog railway from the Col Saint-Ignace to the top of La Rhune (www.rhune.com) for spectacular Pyrenees panoramas. In Biarritz, across from Place Sainte-Eugénie, take the steps to the lookout point for great views of the port.

Something

Stroll the harbour at Hondarribia, a pretty port on the Spanish side of the River Bidasoa (French Hendaye lies across the water). Three streets back from the harbour, Kalea San Pedro is the hub of Hondarribia's pintxo bars and restaurants.

January Gastro societies gather in San Sebastián to mark the feast of the city's saint, Donostia, with percussion- accompanied parades. May Hendaye hosts a theatre festival, Mai du Théâtre, with a programme of drama from professional, amateur and children's troupes. June Fête de Saint Jean is Saint-Jean-de-Luz's summer-solstice celebration, when locals process in Basque costume, and there's dancing, music and bonfires by the sea. Bidart hosts a two-day music festival, with seaside gigs at Ilbarritz beach to entertain the surf crowd. July The Fête de Thon in Saint-Jean-de-Luz celebrates the mighty tunny fish. Mid-month, Biarritz attracts bods with boards to its annual surf festival. Bayonne hosts the crowd-pulling Fêtes de Bayonne, culminating in a triumph of sons et lumières. July-August On a handful of Nuits de Feux during the month, fireworks light up the Grande Plage at Biarritz. August During the second week of the month, the residents of Hendaye and Hondarribia join forces for the Fête Basque. Processions, floats and craft fairs mark the occasion. September Biarritz's festival of dance features Basque, flamenco, ballet and contemporary performances, over 10 days in the middle of the month.