Allan, France + Add a trip
- Not far from: Montélimar, Donzère, Malataverne, Le Teil, Montboucher-sur-Jabron, Châteauneuf-du-Rhône, Sauzet, Viviers
on Vaucluse, Provence
City Life: Petanque and pastis
Cultivated for centuries beneath the peak of the mighty Mont Ventoux, the Vaucluse is the earthy, abundant counterpart to the show-off glitz of the Riviera and the Côte d'Azur.
Melons from Cavaillon, truffles from Carpentras, lavender from Sault, classic Rhône wines - tempting produce is showcased daily in the local markets. The soft valleys and craggy peaks are diverse and beautiful, Provençal sunlight alchemising vineyards and villages into instant art; walkers and cyclists can tackle the Alpine foothills or laze in lavender fields. You could spend a lifetime sampling the culture - summer festivals, specialist honeys, Avignon's mansions and museums - or you could simply tug the brim of your straw hat down a bit and lie back until it's time for that apéritif.
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Getting There
Automobiles
Great for exploring the wine regions and the foothills of the Alps, but be careful in villages with steep, narrow streets.
Planes
Nîmes and Marseille airports are best.
Trains
The train is a comfortable and convenient option. Eurostar from London takes seven hours, with a change in Paris. From July to September there's a weekly direct train on Saturdays taking six hours.
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Local Knowledge
Dialing
Country code for France: 33. Provence: (0)4.
Reads
The Man who Planted Trees by Jean Giono; Market Day in Provence by Michèle de La Pradelle.
Do go / Don't Go
Spring and autumn see the region in its sunniest mood. Only the postcard-prettiest villages get crowded, even in summer. Winter is chilly when the Mistral wind blows.
Cuisine
Gastro-Provençal reigns - refined dishes of lamb, game and fish with olive, lavender and herb flavours. Local wines are a must: ask for something from the village's own vigneron (wine-maker) or look out for wines hailing from Rhone-valley villages such as Gigondas, Lirac, Vacqueras, Beaumes de Venies, and the classic, Châteauneuf du Pape. Do make like a petanque-playing village elder and order a Ricard (a popular brand of pastis), starting with one part pastis to three parts water.
Taxis
It's best to book in advance. Your hotel should be able to arrange a pick-up from the train station in Avignon or the airport in Marseille.
Tipping
A service charge is automatically added to restaurant bills, but it's usual to round up the bill or leave a few euros.
Currency
Euro (€).
Packing
A programme for one of the summer's theatre, dance
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Worth Doing
Arts
The well-preserved Roman amphitheatre at Orange makes a thrilling backdrop to the summer opera festival in July (www.choregies.asso.fr).
And...
Shopping
Apart from the giant blocks of savon de Marseille, the best buys are olive-wood kitchenwares and lavender bath products (we like the Popée family's tiny shop on the road from Sault up to the Ventoux). In Sault, nougaterie André Boyer sells sweet treats in an historic interior. Isle-sur-la-Sorgue hosts a celebrated antiques market every Sunday morning.
Viewpoint
There are belvederes on the twisty route up Mont Ventoux. High above Beaumes de Venise (ask in the village), Domaine de Durban has top dessert wines and a super view.
Something
You can sample your way around the region's bigger markets, especially the one at Bédoin. Look out for wild lavender growing around Sault in July and August.
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Diary
July The Festival d'Avignon brings all manner of street performers to the city, as well as formal concerts (www.festival-avignon.com). Avignon's off-beat fringe arts festival runs at the same time, filling the streets with jugglers and mime artists (www.avignon-off.org). Last two weeks of July Carpentras stages Les Estivales de Carpentras, an entertaining celebration of music, theatre and dance. 15 August Sault, in the heart of the region's lavender fields, hosts the fragrant Fête de la Lavande.