Eivissa, Spain + Add a trip

Automobiles

Driving can be a real pleasure here, with good signposting and some great coastal roads. The drivers are not half as scary as their reputation makes out, either. Go off-road in the northern pine forests with a 4x4.

Planes

Ibiza airport is about five miles southwest of Ibiza Town. If you're not hiring a car, taxis from the rank outside the airport are metered and reasonable (around €10 for the trip to Ibiza Town). There are lots of flights in the summer; far fewer in winter.

Trains

There's no railway system on Ibiza, although the Ibitren, the mini funfare-style train that departs from San Antonio and Santa Eulalia can be an amusing way to relax and while away a hungover afternoon.

Dialing

The country code for Spain is +34; Ibiza is 971.

Reads

Dorothy Dunnett wrote a much-loved mystery novel set on the island, Ibiza Surprise. For something chewier, try Elliot Paul's forgotten classic The Life and Death of a Spanish Town, which tells of the impact of the civil war on Thirties Santa Eulalia, now Ibiza's third largest resort. Many will fully appreciate The White Island: The Extraordinary History of the Mediterranean's Capital of Hedonism by Stephen Armstrong.

Do go / Don't Go

May, September or October are perfect, although in summer you can find uncrowded beaches on Formentera and the north coast. The opening and closing parties in June and September are highlights of the clubbing calendar.

Cuisine

Seafood is unsurprisingly popular. Local specialities include ray with almonds, Fideuá seafood stew with pasta, and anglerfish casserole. Fish stews can be exceptionally good, and fresh lobster and squid are delicious.

Taxis

Try to use licensed taxis. You can flag them down if their green light is lit; prices are metered and reasonable. Get your hotel to book for you when possible.

Tipping

If you experience good service, it's nice to leave up to about ten per cent, although it's not always expected.

Currency

Euro.

Packing

Hippie chic forever; style here is always about boho luxe. Pack something glam for those indulgent evenings out.

Arts

Ibiza Town was founded in the 7th century BC, making it one of the oldest European towns. The Carthaginians constructed the amazing salt flats - or Las Salinas - which are still there and still look beautiful, especially when there are a few flamingos wading about. For more contemporary history, the hippy culture in Ibiza is still alive and well: go along to the Es Cana market every Wednesday or the smaller San Carlos market, every Saturday (both in the summer only).

And...

Avoid going to cool restaurants, bars or clubs on the 'wrong' day or night. Always check beforehand to see what's on, especially during winter. Locals do it; you should, too.

Shopping

For funky boho threads, pop into Ganesha on Montgri, in Ibiza Town (+34 971 193605). For designer labels, try Atelier at 12 Vara de Rey (+34 971 313135). Get design inspiration and some stylish souvenirs (clothes, jewellery, homeware and more) from Sluiz at Carretera Ibiza/San José or Carretera Ibiza/Santa Eulalia (+34 971 800 005; www.sluiz-ibiza.com). Don't worry if you want one of everything - the shop can deliver across Europe.

Viewpoint

Overlooking Las Salinas are the pirate towers, which along with the old walls around Ibiza Town, serve as a reminder that this island once had more terrifying invaders than whistle-blowing ravers to worry about. A clamber up to one of the towers gives you great views, including a look at the spooky but lovely, uninhabited island of Es Vedra.

Something

The clubs put on parades in Ibiza Town on summer evenings to draw in the crowds. The strategy is simple: the more outrageously eye-catching the better.

See in the New Year at Space, DC10 or Pacha. February Carnaval street parties in Ibiza Town lend a flavour of Brazil with samba parades and music. June The clubs come out of hibernation with a bang and set up for another long summer of excess. 24 June The Festival of Fuegos de San Juan sees a fantastic fireworks display over Ibiza Town. Last week of July The five-day Ibiza Jazz Festival is held on the Santa Lucia bulwark in Ibiza Town and attracts international artists. September Clubbing season comes to a fitting climax with closing parties. December During the two weeks before Christmas there's a festive daily market at Las Dalias near San Carlos.