Campillos, Spain + Add a trip

Automobiles

It's worth hiring a car to explore the mountains and pueblos blancos, or to make the run down to the beaches and nightlife of Marbella.

Planes

The nearest airports are Málaga (1hr), Seville (2hrs) and Gibraltar (2hrs). Expect delays at the border with Gibraltar.

Trains

There is a daily morning train to Málaga (1.5hrs; no Sunday service), returning in the evening.

Dialing

Country code for Spain: 34. Malaga province: 952.

Reads

For Whom the Bell Tolls by Ernest Hemingway; Driving Over Lemons by Chris Stewart.

Do go / Don't Go

Ronda attracts daytrippers from the Costa, especially in the height of summer, but after 14h the town returns to its more peaceful self. Spring and autumn are warm and tranquil. Winter weather can be changeable in the mountains.

Cuisine

The cooking in the interior of Andalucía is dominated by Serrano mountain ingredients, with some subtle Moorish influences. Oxtail is a particularly tasty local speciality, along with smoked ham, beef with artichokes and kidneys in Jerez sherry. The mountains also produce excellent game dishes.

Taxis

Cabs are cheap, but not always metered. Those that aren't should carry an official book of rates, so check with your driver before you set off. Taxis display a green 'libre' notice or green light at night.

Tipping

Ten per cent in restaurants is appreciated; otherwise a few euros with drinks or tapas is sufficient.

Currency

Euro.

Packing

Take warm layers for the winter months, when the weather is changeable. Bring good walking boots for the mountains.

Arts

The neoclassical bullring, where the Romero family defined modern bullfighting in the 18th century, is one of the oldest and prettiest in Spain. Visit the museum during late afternoon when there are fewer tourists in town.

And...

Orson Welles' ashes were scattered here, some say inside the bullring.

Shopping

Options in Ronda are limited. For chic shopping, Puerto Banus on the coast is a honeypot of boutiques and super-yachts.

Viewpoint

The best views of the plunging 100-metre-deep El Tajo gorge are from the Puente Nuevo and the Paseo de Blas Infante next to the bullring.

Something

There are several spectacular drives through mountain scenery in the area. The roads to Grazalema, El Bosque and Setenil are some of the best.

Semana Santa aka Easter Week sees colourful processions by the town's religious fraternities. 20-23 May Feria de la Reconquista celebrates the defeat of the Moors with a series of noisy parades, as well as a cattle market. First week of September The Pedro Romero Fair is the largest in Ronda, with flamenco and folklore festivals, as well as parades and bullfights featuring 18th-century period costume. Tickets are scarce and tend to sell out quickly, so book early, from July onwards (+34 954 503 794).