Pudisoo, Estonia + Add a trip

Automobiles

Parking is tricky and pricey; however, if you're touring, a car is the best option.

Planes

A taxi from the airport costs around EEK80. The number 2 bus stops a short walk from the old town.

Trains

Use as a last resort, and stay away from the station at night.

Dialing

Country code for Estonia: 372. No city code.

Reads

The Compromise by Sergei Dovlatov; The Conspiracy and Other Stories by Jaan Kross; The Autumn Ball by Mati Unt.

Do go / Don't Go

Though it's very pretty in the snow in winter, it gets very cold and in February the temperature can drop to -25ºC.

Cuisine

Cabbage or pea soup. Our favourite was served at the simple, traditional Eesti Maja (Estonian House) on Lauteri (645 5252).

Taxis

They are cheap. Go to the taxi rank on Vabaduse Väljak, or hail one on the main road.

Tipping

Optional, but ten per cent is usually expected.

Currency

Kroon (EEK).

Packing

An Estonian (Eesti Keel) phrasebook - although more and more people speak English. Warm clothing in winter.

Arts

Visit Kadriorg Palace (www.ekm.ee) on Weizenbergi. An art gallery and a museum, open daily, it also hosts concerts.

And...

Naissaar is an island and nature reserve in the Gulf of Finland (www.naissaar.ee). The best way to get to and from Naissaar is on a boat from Pirita harbour called Monica (052 55 363).

Shopping

You don't really hit Tallinn to shop, though on Viru, the main shopping street, you can pick up typical souvenirs. Avoid buying in the old town where prices are hiked up; instead, visit traditional craftsmen in Kadriörg. Watch artisans making jewellery, pottery and stained glass at Katariina Kaik.

Viewpoint

The spire at St Olav's church on Pikk. Take the wobbly lift up Teletorn TV Tower (www.teletorn.ee) to the Galaxy restaurant.

Something

Opposite the palace is Kadriörg Park which hosts lakeside concerts in the summer. The biggest treat is Pirita Beach, about seven kilometres from the city centre, where you can swim and surf.

30 April Walpurgis Night sees a big Volbriöö party. November Jazzkaar, global jazz festival (www.jazzkaar.ee). June Grillfest BBQ championship and Summer Solstice street party when the sun sets for just a couple of hours. June-July Old Town Days - mediaeval markets and performers. July Beer Summer (www.ollesummer.ee), Nordic festival. August Modern dance festival (www.saal.ee). December Sip glöggi at the Christmas market.