Driving isn't easy, and parking is hellish: most areas are residents-only blue zones.
Ruzyne airport is about 20 mins from the city centre. Taxis are around CZK 650 (about €22), but most hotels offer a free pick-up service if you phone ahead. Bus 199 goes to Dejvická station, which is on the metro.
International trains arrive at the art nouveau Wilson Main Station.
Country code for Czech Republic: 420. Prague: no code.
The Castle by Franz Kafka; Laughable Loves by Milan Kundera; Prague Tales by Jan Neruda; On the Sky's Clayey Bottom by Zdenek Urbánek. The Visible World by Mark Slouka.
Do go / Don't Go
Winters can be freezing, summers scorching and busy - the best times are late spring and early autumn. If you don't mind the cold, and periodic smog alerts, the city is lovely in snow.
Pork, dumplings and sauerkraut still reign supreme, but the new Prague offers far more than rib-stickers; fashionable international cuisine is available all over town. Veggies can have a hard time; book ahead.
Definitely avoid hailing them on the street since many drivers try to get away with the 'scenic route' and not turning on the meter. Try AAA Radio Taxis on 2211 0 2211 or 14 0 14.
A small cover charge and extras for bread are normal, as is a tip - round up to the nearest CZK 10.
Czech koruna; CZK 30 = about €1.
Trainers (fancy shoes may not be able to negotiate the hills and slippery cobbles); opera glasses.
For information on theatre and art exhibitions, pick up a Prague Post. The views from Museum Kampa are almost as much of a treat as the modern-art exhibitions (www.museumkampa.cz). The Jewish Museum and Cemetery is the largest of its kind in Central Europe, with one of the world's most extensive collections of Judaic art. Galerie Rudolfinium (www.galerierudolfinium.cz) is among the best for contemporary art, and Galerie Jelení, operated by the Center for Contemporary Arts (www.fcca.cz), hosts the most experimental exhibitions.
Take a boat cruise or the metro out to the castle at Vysehrad, a sprawling and rocky hilltop ruin whose gardens and panoramic views make it an unusual romantic day-trip. There is also the Slavin cemetery here which is Prague's answer to Père Lachaise in Paris.
The pretty tree-lined street Parízská in Josefov has been nicknamed 'French Street', as it means Paris, and has many fashionable boutiques and restaurants. We loved the shoes at Vicini, and Deco Interior on Stupartská. If you want decent souvenirs - such as wooden puppets in every imaginable guise - head to Malá Strana. Books are big among Prague residents: the Globe bookstore at 6 Pštrossova, wonderful Café Rybka, round the corner at 7 Opatovicka, and Antikvariát Dobrá Kniha, near Hotel 987, at 4 Dlázdená, are just a handful of the city's literary treasuries.
The best view is from the top of Petrín Tower; take the funicular to the top of Petrín Hill and then make the long walk up this mini Eiffel Tower. (Remember to take change for the ticket machine, or buy a ticket in the newsagent at the foot of the hill). The TV Tower is a winner; sip on a cocktail or have dinner here. The castle grounds have two spots from which to peer over red-roofed Prague: the Garden of Paradise on the ramparts, and the Castle Steps (Thunovská).
A walk on Petrín Hill - the biggest and greenest of Prague's seven hills.
February Masopust, a street party for Shrove Tuesday. 30 April Witches' Night celebrates the end of winter. 1 May Day of Love, when Mr & Mrs Smiths climb Petrín Hill and kiss under the statue of a romantic poet. May-June Spring International Music Festival (www.festival.cz). June Festival of Puppet Theatre (www.puppetart.com). October Jazz Festival (www.agharta.cz).