Kabul, Afghanistan + Add a trip

Delhi Darbar does indeed have a branch in Mazar-e Sharif, with the Royal Oak one of your few bets for food, but also a frosty cold b**r.

L'Atmosphere is a lot more Eurotrashy (NGO types called things like Jemima and Hugo) at the moment. Unless you have a beard, like to dress like Morrissey but topped with an Afghan bonnet and have loads of friends who are NGO types with names like Hugo and Jemima, I would skip it - especially if you are a security type. That said, the open fire in the conservatory type bit they use in the winter is quite cosy.

If you are a bit more security in profile I would try the Gandamak. It's got a terrific bunker bar and a good crowd - ISAF, security companies, a couple of the big companies. All are present in force there.

My first Kabul meal was in the garden at the Gandamack Lodge. Brunch at the Kabul Serena is good too if you're looking to hobnob.